Esto son artículos recogidos de las news <alt.autos.porsche> que muestran experiencias de usuarios de Porsche 944.
De momento los pongo en inglés. Algún día lo traduciré.
Si tienes alguna pregunta no dudes en consultarme, y si como usuario conoces alguna curiosidad, mándala tambien para ponerla por aquí.

LISTA DE CUESTIONES:

• Son 200.000 Km muchos para un 944 de 1987? - Buying140K Miles 944
• Refrigerante aire acondicionado. - Refrigerant
• Problemas con aire caliente. - Hot air flow
• Vehículo excelente. - Excellent Vehicle
• Neumáticos y conducción en mojado. - About tyres and wet driving
• Aditivos para el aceite. - Oil aditives.

Buying 140K Miles 944

On Tue, 12 Aug 1997 14:01:45 -0400, Amit Dhadwal <adhadwal@po10.mit.edu> wrote: Hi all, Are 140K miles on a 1987 944 too many miles ? I am considering buying this car ... I would really appreciate someone's response.. Depends on the car in question. For a fully serviced car that has been taked care of, I don't think that anyone has yet found a lifetime limit, especially for the 2.5 8-valvers. Even clutches and exhausts are virtually immortal. However, a badly maintained or badly driven car could be in a very sorry state in well less than 100k miles. My old 1983 944 was still perfect at 137k (oil consumption? what's that! < 0,25l per 6000 miles. No gearbox noise. Original exhaust.) I knew the car from new and surely it had needed work on the suspension,and some minor engine stuff, but it had been immaculately maintained. It would have gone on forever, had someone not decided to re-shape it for me in a dramatic and unwelcome manner. When buying its replacement, I came across some real dogs. Low-milage cars that had been systematically neglected down the years. They are dreadful. In some ways, high-milage is quite a good sign. At least they have been used as serious transport, and have been relied upon to start, go and stop as required. Week-end second cars can often be allowed to become a bit second rate because it does not matter to their owners too much if they break down. So, judge the car, not the miles. Judge its owners. Look at its service and repair records. If all looks OK, then it could well be an excellent buy (high milage chases down prices). But, if you buy it, change the cam belt AND THE TENSIONER PULLEY immediately! Take nobody's word for its having been done. Seriously, the one weak spot in the 944 is the cam drive. THe belts can jump and the pulleys can break up. Either is very costly. Although the belts seem dear, just price up 8 valves, 8 valve guides, 8 cam followers, a few pistons, a gasket set .... you get the message, I'm sure. If it's a good one, you won't regret it! Alistair.   Amit Dhadwal <adhadwal@po10.mit.edu> writes: I am thinking of purchasing a standard 1987 944 Porsche, with 140 K miles on it. I would really appreciate some advice from someone on. a) is $6990 a fair price for that mileage ? The car had new tires, brakes, and a new clutch replaced a year back. Sepends on body, and some other particulars, but this price is not far off. Mileage is 'sort' of high but these cars aren't getting any younger. Ypu could probably shop around and find a lower milage one for the same or less, but if it has been carefully kept the miles mean little. If they are all highway miles it is even better, of course. b) Its 140 K miles ! Whats the chance the car will die on me ? Depends on when the timing belt was done, and also if the water pump was done at the same time. The engine/car combination itself will go for a LONG time... but only with regular timing belt changes. I do mine every 50,000 miles and every other time I do the water pump. I plan on getting 300,000 miles from my 1985 model. If the seller can not show records for a recent timing belt change, DO NOT DRIVE IT except to go to the mechanic for it to be done. Adjust the selling price accordingly. A busted timing belt = WAY big bills. ($3000 +) to fix bent valves. c) Given these statistics, how much can I expect to spend on the car every year ? Plan on oil changes every 3000 miles, you can do these yourself in less than an hour. Timing belt as above, depending on miles driven. Actually there is very little other work to be done, except consumables (tires, brakes, clutch, wiper blades, etc.) and these all vary with your miles and (even more importantly) your driving habits. d) any other advice ??? Shop around. The 944's are common and you should look at several. They are very responsive and well mannered cars, and are a pleasure as a daily driver. They represent a very good value. Of course, you will become a Porsche nut, will read every catalog, buy another thousand dollars of stuff for it, still feel like you need more, and will end up with a 911... (Trust me on this......) :-)

Refrigerant

I own a 944 (1985) and I can t find in the manual how much refrigerant must fill into the system. From the Porsche 944 Models, Dimensions, Tolerances spec book: Refrigerant volume: 924S, 944 up to model '85: 850 g R12 944 from '85/2 on: 950 g R12 Refrigerating Oil in Compressor: 924S, 944 up to model '85: 230 cm^3 +/- 20 cm^3 Densoil 944 from '85/2 on: 80 cm^3 +/- 20 cm^3 Densoil Hope that helps..

Hot air flow

"Zachary M. Hansen" <zack@degnanco.com> wrote: OK I am getting a constant flow of HOT air through my car an 84 944. Even with the temp selector inthe COLD position..... I have check the haynes for this and there is no mention....... HELp MEEE zack@magpage.com Zack, I had the same problem on my '86 944. Look under the dash on the drivers side near where your right leg would be. There is a metal rod connected to a flapper where the air comes out. The other end of the rod is connected to another arm by a plastic bushing. This plastic bushing was broken. If that's not it then I would take a close look at the heater valve under the hood. Terry Other Response: This is a fairly common failure on 924/944's. The valve that controls hot coolant flow into the heater core is stuck open. It's an inexpensive fix, as the part is of VW/AUDI origin. Which probably lead to it's failure history, but that's another issue. You should be able to reach it behind and below the rear of the cylinder head. I can reach mine, even with all that other Turbo stuff there. Try moving the lever that the controls move via cable, by hand. Yoou may at least be able to get the heat "off" until you can replace the valve. Also check to see that your heater lever chassis isn't broken? It's much more expensive than the valve, but breakage is common when the valve gets stuck. Good luck. Yours in the Stuttgart spirit, Russell Therrien '87 944 Turbo both PCA members Another Response: I was reading where it said older 944s have some overheating problem. I simply replaced the fan thermostat switch with one that cuts on at a lower temp so it starts cooling faster. More: Does anyone out there have a plan to wire BOTH the fans on my 944 to run simultaneuosly to keep the engine cooler. I have AC and am equiped with the dual fan set up and I would ike them to both run when the main fan turns on. More: Use a Hella driving light relay. Run a wire from the power wire of the #1 fan to the relay, to close it when power is applied. Run a line from the battery (fused, of course) to the relay, and the output to the second fan. When power is applied to the first fan, is closes the relay and puts power to the second fan as well. This system will "overlay" the existing system and the normal fan system logic will still operate, only anytime the first fan is on the second will also be running. I would think that you could do this entire job in about 15 minutes with crimp-on connectors. Haven't done this, but the principle is simple.

Excellent vehicle

Dave Sutton <nospam pilots@planet.net> wrote: This is a typical example of incorrect badging and marketing....... The 924/944/928 serties of cars were all EXCELLENT vehicles (OK, so the oldest 924's were a bit off....). The thing is, they should have been badged as Audi products, not Porsche's. If they had been sold as an Audi, they would be a cult classic car, commanding high prices from the Audi nuts. (look at what 1985 Audi Turbo-Quattro Coupe's are worth now in cherry shape..). But since the Porsche purists all poo-pooed the cars, they never held their value. There was nothing wrong with Porsche's marketing of the 944. It was their biggest selling model and actually saved Porsche, the company from bankruptcy. Revenues from 944 sales were instrumental in carrying Porsche through the lean years...without it, the 911 may not have evolved to the present. The 944 used a fully Porsche designed engine (basically half a 928 V-8) so it was a true Porsche where it counted (in the heart). I've seen my friend's Audi Coupe (similar to the Quattro) up close than the car is junk in terms of quality and workmanship. The materials are cheap and the fit and finish is terrible. My '86 944 on the other hand is as tight as ever...no rattles or squeaks.

About tyres and wet driving

Pete <pweisel@slip.net> writes The Yokahama A800 series tyres are very sticky, you will grin widely when they are new. I had the alloy rims and thus lower profile tires than the "cookie cutter" stock rims require. When the tires begin to wear, expect a rougher ride than usual. Found similar problems with Goodyear GT-S tires as well. Expect around 30K miles from most performance tires. You are driving a 944, one of the best handling production sports cars ever. But good tires and enjoy it. The bigger costs are maintenance and repairs. Agreed, I have a '91 944 S2 Coupe. White with blue leather. I have heard a rumour that handling is very poor in the wet and once had trouble doing 40 around a gradually tightening bend. I had trouble staying on the road and started sliding sideways. I only just made it yet the Ford Granada which was about 10 feet behind me which seemed to have no problems and was trying to push me to go faster!!! Does the 944 have trouble in the wet or is it just me?

Oil aditives

On Sun, 12 Oct 1997 19:52:52 GMT, harri@daks1.demon.co.uk (Harri Stephens) wrote: I've heard that SLICK 50 doesn't work and that it could even damage the car. They were forced to stop their commercials about running the engines with no oil, etc. Is this true? Also, my shift knob sticks a little into 1st and 2nd sometimes, would slick 50 for the transmission help any? (I know they make some for manual transmissions) If Slick-50's the stuff that has Teflon in it, then yes it could damage your engine. Some companies that make racing engines can bond teflon to bearing surfaces, but they use temperatures and pressures that you're not going to see inside your engine (at least, not more than once!). I've heard that the Teflon particles tend to plug up the smaller oil galleries. I also know that a friend and I both used a similar product (Tufoil) and within a year we had both had to replace our engines. I can't say that Tufoil did it, but that's the only car I ever used it in, and the only car I ever had that had engine failure. Leave the Teflon for frying pans, just use a good oil (I use Mobil 1) with the recommended viscosity, and change it every 3000 miles. If there really was anything to this Slick-50 stuff, don't you think one of the major oil companies would buy the rights and market the hell out of it?